Lambing Prolapse
There are generally two types of prolapses related to lambing: vaginal and uterine and they usually occur in the month leading up to lambing. A vaginal prolapse will often appear as a small red protrusion when the ewe is sitting down and often disappear when the ewe stands up. Keep a close eye on this sheep as that small red protrusion can become a problem. Sometimes they are fine and resolve themselves, but if in doubt or you know the ewe is carrying multiples it may pay to get it checked out. Vaginal and uterine prolapses are usually fairly easy to tell apart as a vaginal prolapse is generally smaller, round, smooth and shiny and brighter red, whereas a uterine prolapse is much larger, darker red in colour and the caruncles, raised circles which look like the suckers on octopus tentacles, are obvious. The caruncles hold the placenta to the uterus. See photo below in the uterine prolapse information.
Causes of Prolapse
There are several possible causes of prolapse including:
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Excess weight
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Multiple lambs
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High fibre diet
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Not enough exercise if ewes are contained or ewes are lame and not walking enough
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Tails docked too short
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Steep terrain
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Sub-clinical Hypocalcaemia
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Treatment for Vaginal Prolapse
My number one suggestion, if you are at all unsure about fixing a prolapse, is to call the Vet. If the prolapse is vaginal and not large, you may be able to push it back yourself and hold with a plastic retention device or a harness. But the prolapse needs to be clean before it is replaced, and antibiotics should be administered. You also need to know what you are doing as a larger vaginal prolapse may also contain the bladder, so needs to be replaced properly. An anaesthetic injection may also be necessary for a larger vaginal prolapse. The Vet will replace it and stitch with a Buhner suture (which is designed to leave a gap for urination) and give instructions on what to do closer to lambing. Anti-inflammatories and antibiotics may also be administered.
Uterine Prolapse
If the prolapse is uterine in nature, you will definitely require the Vet as they are not easy to get back in and the ewe can easily die if the procedure is not done properly. The Vet will thoroughly clean the uterus and may ask for some white sugar. This is rubbed onto the uterus making it shrink and thus easier to push back into place. It will then be stitched in place. This will also require anaesthetic, anti-inflammatories and antibiotics. The stitches may or may not need to be removed, depending on how severe the prolapse is and the Vet will advise if the ewe will be able to breed again.
The reason I recommend getting the Vet for any prolapse is if you are really unlucky you may have what we had one year with a ewe trying to lamb twins through a vaginal prolapse. So, what started as a small vaginal prolapse ended up with the ewe unable to push the lamb out as each time she strained and pushed, she was just pushing the prolapse out more. I couldn’t get the lamb out as pulling would just pull everything out and I couldn’t fit my hand in while the prolapse was out. This is most definitely a Vet job as the prolapse had to be replaced and the lambs pulled through, then the Vet cleaned out the ewe and stitched in the prolapse. It was difficult to manage, even for the Vet. She did an amazing job, even getting the second lamb out who hadn’t entered the birth canal due to the prolapse. We were very lucky to save the ewe as it is hard to do without tearing the inside of the uterus and even the smallest tear will cause the ewe to bleed out and there is nothing the Vet can do for that.
My advice, unless you REALLY know what you are doing for anything other than a small, vaginal prolapse is to get your Vet or you could end up losing both ewe and lamb(s).
Whilst waiting for the Vet or if you plan to replace the prolapse yourself, keep the prolapse as clean as possible. A damp towel or piece of damp sheeting will work well to protect it from the ground. Never replace a dirty prolapse and your ewe will need anitbiotics after the procedure.
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If you are feeling confident enough to try a bearing retainer for a small vaginal prolapse, I can highly recommend the orange one from SHOOF. They come in a pack of four and I found it quite easy to use. As the Babydolls have quite short fleece you will need to harness it to the ewe's body. If your sheep has longer wool you may be able to use the clips. I used slightly stretchy soft nylon garden tie, that came in a roll.
You will need to cut two long lengths, depending on how you are going to tie the harness on, as the ties need to go across the body, cross over each other around the chest and then back through the front legs and tie on the back.
That was the easiest way I found to do it.
Attach the ties before you insert the retainer and just keep them out of the way while you work.
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Firstly, you need to wear gloves and clean the prolapse with Betadine diluted in warm water. Then, with the flat of our hand, and using your palm, push the prolapse upward and inward at the same time.
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If the prolapse is small, it should just pop straight back in, otherwise you may need to work a bit harder to push and manouevre it.
You can tip the sheep onto its shoulder with legs in the air and let gravity help, but I find it easier in standing position. Once the prolapse is in, it's a matter of inserting the retainer into the ewe behind the prolapse.
Coat the spoon part of the retainer with lubricant and gently insert it into the ewe in a downward motion from her tail. This is very much a two handed task, so make sure someone is holding the sheep. Once you get the lower, thicker part of the retainer in, the rest of it is almost sucked in, and surprisingly, it just sits where it should.
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Then it's just a matter of harnessing it on securely. You will need to check it daily to make sure it is still in place and that the ewe can urinate. If it is positioned correctly, this shouldn't be a problem.
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A Penicillin injection should be given to counteract any bugs from the invasive nature of the procedure and in case there was still any debris on the prolapse.
Sophie, our first prolapse ewe, lambed with the retainer on, and it just flipped up onto her back. The prolapse did not come out at all, and we were able to just cut the ties and leave her to mothering her lamb.
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If you are getting the Vet, there is no need to buy a retainer, as the Vet will stitch the prolapse in, but you will need to remove the stitch as the ewe goes into labour.
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Also add extra Calcium to the ewe's diet for a couple of days. Pat Coleby recommends Calcium Fluoride Tissue Salts, such as Schuessler, (available from the pharmacy) and to give 12 crushed tablets a day for two days. Blocks and loose lick minerals are also helpful but only if all the ewes are eating them.
